While it rained or the city was closed for the majority of time we were in Salta, we still tried to enjoy the city as much as possible.
We were still able to visit some of the highlights including:
1. The Saturday artisan market on north Paseo del Balcarce showcases a combination of local and handmade goods. Leather and metal shops abound and we also tried a typical cookie called a turron with a honey-marshmallow filling. Be aware: the metal looks like silver, but it's actually something called alpaca (not the animal, same word) which is cheap copper covered in silver plating.
2. La Casona del Molino-a favorite among locals and tourists alike. Show up just before opening time at 9 pm to get in line with the early birds and guarantee yourself a seat. Order any meat and they will cook how they, not you, like it. Be prepared for lines out the door when you leave at 11 pm.
3. Visit Plaza 9 de Julio-restaurants line the square and while overpriced, it's a great way to people watch, including the occasional protest.
4. Walk to San Martin Park-shop or eat along the "lake" and try a local asado plate before walking across the street to take the teleferico up for a view of the city. AR$85 round trip per person. The park is lovely and if you plan ahead, pack a lunch and enjoy the views.
5. El Patio de Empanadas-while we weren't overly impressed with the empanadas we tried, mostly due to our arrival just before closing, we've heard when all the stalls are open it's fun to try each one.
6. Experience a Pena on Paseo de Balcarce-starting after 10 pm, local musicians join most of the restaurants to play for awhile. Some have steep cover charges, so wander the street and ask and listen for a bit to see if you like the style. We enjoyed a AR$13 cover + great music at Casa del Tiempo. (We had originally stopped by Viejo Estacion, but the AR$100 cover per person kept us moving.)
We skipped the Train to the Clouds, so we can't recommend this, but other reviews say it is an exceptional trip. Salta was a lovely place to relax and wander for a few days, but ensure you check the holiday schedule.